Offerings, Prayers and Meditations

 

An offering graciously given to me by Ketut, my massage lady, after a local ceremony.

The smell of incence waifed through the night air as Iluh arrived at my bungalow with a dinner tray filled with offerings."Barb, would you like to join me at the Temple to pray?" Feeling honoured to be asked, I jump up from my book and say, "Yes, I'd love to." Wrapping a sarong around my waist, we walk up the stairs to the highest point on the property and I watch as Iluh places offerings and sticks of burning incense in front of the 3 statues and splashes some holy water over them. The offerings are small woven coconut leaf baskets (called canang), filled with rice, flower petals and occasionally, cookies or other gifts to the gods. Iluh tells me to sit on the ground and she places an offering in front of me and then pokes some incense in the dirt. She does the same for herself.
With stars peeking through the trees, waves crashing on the beach below, geckos croaking and motor scooters zooming past, Iluh begins to sing. Time ceases for a moment as the sacred touches my soul.
This is everyday life in Bali, where the holy intersects with the mundane.
Wherever you go, you see women making offerings, at the sea, in front of shops and houses or at temples.
Ceremonies are held to celebrate weddings, births, deaths, as well as for full moons, new moons, even a day to thank the gods for metal (when you will see motorbikes all over Bali decorated with offering baskets, much like we used to decorate our bikes for the sports day parade when we were kids!)
The day after I sat with Iluh at the temple, I was invited by Komang to attend a cleansing ceremony at a famous Holy Temple: Pura Lempuyang. Following Komang's lead, I allowed the priest to splash me with holy water (taken from a special spring next to the temple). He then splashed water into our hands 3 times and we drank it, then 3 more times and we splashed it over our heads. Using some of the flower petals from the offerings, we waved them through the incense and held them between our fingers as we lifted our arms in prayer. We did this 5 times and each time, placed the petals behind our ears. Finally, we each took some grains of rice and rubbed them onto our forehead in 3 places (third eye and 2 temples).
Two days later, I noticed women carrying extra large offering baskets filled with fruit, cakes and flowers, so I asked the staff, "Is today a special ceremony day?" I was told it was a day to bring balance to the bad energies. "For example, if someone is making bad magic to us, we must ask the Gods to help."
Black and white; Ying and Yang; Good and bad; Light and darkness. The Balinese honour all of these and bring balance through their offerings.
Later that evening, Komang and Kedeck go past my bungalow and ask me if I want to join them at the temple. I sit between these 2 young boys and meditate while they pray. Sweat began dripping down my back, which seemed unusual, as the night air wasn't particularly hot or humid.We leave the temple 40 minutes later and they ask me how my meditation went. "Great, except I'm really sweating!" They laugh. "We sweating also! Very strong energy at Temple tonight."
That night I slept soundly and deeply, except I had the strangest experience, like I was fighting battles all night long.

Trek to Wayan's House

Last Saturday I was invited to Wayan's house for morning tea. Little did I know it was an hour's walk along an arduous mountain track!

Stopping to catch my breath! At one stage I thought I would have to call off the visit as I became faint. I thought I was fit, but this was quite a climb!

 

Eventually, we made it to Wayan's home and had coffee, rice, corn and fish as we sat and tried to talk a little Balinese. Fortunately, Wayan had a dictionary so we could look up words and laugh our way through morning tea! This shows Wayan's mother outside her house.  Their home was basic to say the least; no running water, no electricity. Wayan reads and studies by a small kero lamp in the evenings.

Wayan's house

Isle of the Gods and Temples

The Temple in the grounds of the property where I am staying

Pura Lempuyang is a beautiful place, however, you must be prepared for the 1700 stairs to get you to the top!

Komang celebrates our arrival at the highest temple!

The views were lovely

  Cleansed and feeling "pure"

  

Acting like a priest: A local monkey after consuming all the offerings!

The Blue Star Cafe and Bungalow(s)

 

Ninga, Gede and Iluh on their front porch. Ninga is skilled at woodcarving and is making the beds for the new bungalows.

  

The Blue Star Cafe, named after the many huge turquoise blue starfish in the bay just outside its doors.

  

Bungalow number 1, opened 2 years ago. In the left, you can see the new, double story bungalow, due to be opened in a few weeks.

  

Take 10 steps from Ninga and Iluh's front porch and this is where you end up!

Iluh's story

Iluh is the manager of the place I am staying and it's her job to visit each guest every night and have a chat and ensure their needs are being met. Right from the start, Iluh  shared from her heart, exposing her deepest secrets, desires and dreams. Her and I have become good friends. The more I learn about Iluh, the more I respect and admire her strength and courage as a woman living in a very male dominated society. She is determined to raise the standard of living for herself, her family and her community. How has she done this? Slowly and steadily. Fortunately for Iluh, she completed year 12 at school, something quite rare in this part of Bali (most kids, and especially girls, leave school after year 6 or 7 and stay home to help with the family's farm.) She had a dream of becoming a school teacher and as she says "The Gods heard my dream and made it come true." She attended university part time in Denpaser while working at her job from 4 to 11 pm and looking after her son, Gede, who is now 12.
At the same time her husband, Ninga had his own dream. A poor fisherman, Ninga dreamed of building a cafe on the beachfront land he and his extended family owns. Many tourists over the years have offered to buy part of Ninga's land but he is philosophical about it: "I sell my land and have lots of money, then what? My ancestor's not happy with me, I not happy, I watch rich tourist get richer on my land." I tell Ninga his land is special and no amount of money can buy that. Ninga smiles with his beaming white teeth. He knows I get it.
The God's were good to Ninga and 3 years ago the Blue Star Cafe was opened.
Then Ninga and Iluh had an offer from a building supplier to give them credit to buy the materials to build a bungalow next to the cafe. "This was a sign from my Gods to go ahead and build a bungalow," Iluh shines as she talks about it.
Another double story bungalow is almost complete and I have already booked the upper room for my next Bali holiday in August.
Iluh and Ninga have been blessed and they pass on their good fortune to others in their community. Iluh supports several young girls to attend school, provides breakfast for 20 or 30 people each morning, allows the families without water supplies to come and retrieve water from her well and to take a shower each day in her home, and she hires local teenagers to help her in the cafe and with the bungalow. Her and Ninga are the most generous people in heart and practical matters.
What does Ninga and Iluh dream of now? "Having another child would be great," says Iluh. "Building my boat," says Ninga. It doesn't get much simpler than that!

Trekking to Sacred Springs, Amed

 

Crossing the mountain stream.

Passing the rice fields

Almost there!

Komang and Ketut, trying the Holy water!

This one tastes like metal!

Amed's version of Lourdes!

Hidden way up in the hills behind Amed are the Sacred Springs. After renting a motorbike, I followed Komang and Ketut (K&K) on their bike and we made our way along a narrow road that followed a gushing river and meandered up into the mountain area, passing villages and rice fields, . The scenery was magical. Thirty minutes later, Komang stopped his bike and said, "We go here," pointing at a narrow path off the side of the road. A local villager, barefoot and wearing a torn and worn t-shirt was our guide. K & K had been before but weren't confident on finding all 5 springs. We trekked through rice fields and up the side of the mountain past banana, pineapple and potato plantations, crossing a rushing stream, where I almost lost my sun glasses (but for the quick reflexes of our guide who caught them mid stream!) Whether it was the fresh mountain air or the endorphins buzzing around my body after the 2 km trek, coming upon the first spring in the bush did feel sacred. It was like discovering some magical secret place that holds all the answers to life. Our guide tells us that the water has healing properties and that many people trek here to drink it and bathe in it. K&K and myself splashed the water over our faces and heads. The greatest surprise came when I took a handful of water and drank it. It tasted like lemon. "Why does it taste like lemon?" I asked the guide. He just smiled and shrugged his shoulders. "A little sour," he says. I have another drink.  It tastes just like someone squeezed a lemon into it. I know, because at home I drink it all the time. The guide tells us 300 metres up the mountain is another spring, "this one a little sweeter." So, off we trek. It is true: the second spring almost tastes like coconut water with just a tiny amount of sweetness in it. The third spring had the lemon flavour again and the 4th and 5th springs were completely different; they had a metalic taste. The guide said there is gold, copper and crystals under the earth in this area and that is what gives it the metalic taste. Okay, I get that, but what about the lemon and coconut tasting ones???
Back in my bungalow a few hours later, I contemplate the healing properties of the spring water. While it's true I had no physical ailment to test the validity of it, I do feel unusually invigorated and alive.

Living in the moment, Balinese style!

The Balinese people are teaching me how to live life in the moment, how to find joy in each experience, however small. Yesterday Carol and I were invited to Komang's house for coffee in the late afternoon. His mother, father, brother and wife are there. An old woman is also present....Dadong (Grandmother in Balinese). Komang tells me she has no family and lives in a shack up in the hills. The community cares for her, giving her food and companionship. Komang's father gives her a fish when he catches extra. Komang gives her a bit of money when the God's are kind to him (like when I buy a couple of baskets). "We know she can't repay us, but the God's repay us." She sits away from the rest of us, like an outsider. Her humility and old age attract me to her. I realise she is the old woman I passed on the road the first day I walked to Jemeluk Bay.
Carol and I watch as Yomang starts a fire with dried up palm leaves. They burn quickly and soon the blackened kettle is boiling for our sweet, strong, smooth cup of Bali coffee. It tastes delicious! Dadong drinks her cup, including the grounds in the bottom of the cup. Maybe it's the first thing she's had all day. I don't know. I notice a single burner gas stove and ask Komang if they use it for cooking. "It's broken. I need to buy a new one, but...." and he laughs. Say no more. First things first. The baby is due in May and He or She will have many needs. Then there's the engine for the water pump he told me about the other day when I asked if they had running water. Yomang, his mother, walks down the hill to the community well twice a day to collect  water and carries it back on the top of her head. It gives new meaning to that cup of coffee she tenderly hands me.
When I arrive she greets me with an outstretched hand and then a hug. She laughs and giggles and touches my shoulder as we communicate with our eyes.This family have so little material wealth but they have an unseen substance that has no price.How can we even try to compare our life with theirs? So we have all the gagets and material things in the physical plane, but as a great prophet once said, " What does it profit a man if he gains the whole world but loses his soul?" These people are in close touch with their souls. They live their lives with a constant flow of God presence. It is humbling, to say the least. And it teaches me something so simple and profound: when we live in the now, there are no problems, no broken propane stoves, no lack of water pumps or clothing for a new child. For right now, we are laughing, connecting, filling up with joy unspeakable. And as Carol and I walk back to our bungalow, we are lost for words: "Wow!" is all we can utter of the afternoon at Komang's. The radiance on our faces tells it all.

Basket Weaving in Amed

 

Ketut, sitting on her front porch (Jemeluk Bay in the background), concentrating on making a basket. The materials cost her 12,000 rupiah and she sells one basket for 40,000 rupiah. It takes her 2 1/2 days to make one! 

Afternoon Tea at Comang's

 

Comang's family! We took his Father, Yomang, a bottle of beer and he smacked his lips together after each sip. Then his wife, also Yomang, poured herself a small amount in her glass and we all laughed as we sat and drank Balinese coffee, beer and coke and ate biscuits. Ketut, Comang's wife(the one that looks like a little girl) makes beautiful baskets, so she was teaching Carol and I the craft.

An Angel in Disguise

Dadong ( Grandmother)

Boiling the Kettle!

 

Yomang, preparing Balinese coffee for Carol and I.

Million Dollar View!

 

Admiring the view from behind Comang's house.

School of Lalong (Jackfish) at the Liberty wreck!

Snorkeling at USAT Liberty Shipwreck

 

It was quite a day at the Liberty shipwreck, in particular this school of about 75 white-tipped (see fins) fish that swam in a circle next to us! A bit freaky at first, then as the fear subsided, I felt awestruck.

Visit to Side-By-Side Farm

My sister, Carol and I spent a day at the organic farm that I wrote about in an earlier post. The warm and friendly families who run the farm had a feast prepared for our arrival. So much good, healthy food eaten in a serene and luscious environment, felt like heaven on earth for us! We ate enough to last us til breakfast the next morning.
After lunch, I helped plant 3 fruit trees: 2 mangosteen and one cinnamon.
The pigs I donated will be delivered in the next week and hopefully I will post their photos then!

Enough food for 10 people! Carol and I try our best to eat some of every dish!

The farm is green and lush and provides a peaceful escape from life

 

Helping to plant a Mangosteen tree

  

One of the beautiful children at the farm. The "bales" were built by volunteers and provide accommodation as well as a simple restaurant.

Underwater at Jemeluk Bay, Bali

Everyday Carol and I walk the 1 km road to Jemeluk Bay and enjoy the beauty and serenity of its underwater coral garden. Each day presents a new freshness as the conditions change; one day the sun flickers and creates patterns in the water; other days dark clouds hover above the water, but below is bright and colourful; some days the sea is flat calm; other days our snorkels catch the salt water from a wave. One thing is certain though, everyday is filled with beauty and wonder!

 

 

  

 

The streets of Ubud

Ubud is a fast-paced town with a main road and many interesting side roads that you could explore for days. The energy is high. Ubud, itself, means "medicine" or "healing" and the place is buzzing with spa treatments, massages, yoga, and meditation retreats. All the restaurants and warungs serve healthy juices (my favourite is papaya), herbal teas, fresh organic vegetables and fruit. Meat is secondary on most menus, so, for me, as a vegetarian, it is a treat to go out for lunch and dinner and have such choice in meals! Carol and I are feeling the healthiest we have for many, many years!!

  

Need petrol for your motor scooter? Just pull up at one of these "private" petrol shops anywhere along the roads in Bali!

 

Having lunch in one of the many "Warungs," run by local families and usually the best home cooked Balinese food and very cheap. 

 
 

If you look closely, you can see the offering sitting on this Ganesha's left hand. I love the time and effort the Balinese put into details like placing hibiscus flowers in the elephant's ears!

Women at Work

These women were transporting buckets full of stones (on their heads) up a vertical stairway to a construction site. All they had on their feet were thongs! They were busy working from the time we  passed at 10am until we returned to our cottage at 3:30! I bet they flop into bed at night and sleep soundly!!!

 

Monkey Forest Road, Ubud

Schools out!

School kids crowding around the street vendor to buy spring rolls with peanut sauce!

Chopped up spring rolls in brown paper. They are given a skewer to eat them with!

Ubud Markets

 

The Panastenan Stairs heading into town from our accommodation at Melati Cottages

 

A private entrance to a fascinating house.

 
 

Having an iced cappuccino at Casa Luna's. If you ever go to Ubud, this place is a must and the iced cappuccino is the best I have ever tasted!

 

 

Carol checking out the goods in the Ubud markets.
We didn't stay long as both of us find the crowded, claustrophobic environment quite suffocating. There are good bargains, though, for those who want sarongs ($4), sun dresses ($8), silver bracelets ($10), sandals ($3 - $4), scarves ($4), cushion covers ($6) or any number of other things!